Friday 27 September 2013

Portugal, basking in the welcome shadow of Spain

Originally, I wrote this article for the Australian Times Newspaper, which it was published in.  Then shortly afterwards it featured in the South African Newspaper too.

As globalisation continues to conquer the world, it’s becoming more difficult to find the culture shock that made travellers want to explore in the first place. But if you’re after a getaway offering a mix of medieval pasts and a modern approach to drinking, then look no further than Portugal. While its bigger neighbour Spain might bask in most of the limelight, there are plenty of reasons to head westward.

PORTO
Porto is located up north and is a reminder of why travel is so high on our agendas. Getting through customs at the airport can only be described as ‘a breeze’ and is the first of many indicators for how laid back this country is.

The Metro is a far cry from London’s overcrowded underground and instead can be likened to an air-conditioned tram. However on this system squishing against strangers isn’t an issue. The city’s population stands at just 220,000. Not bad for the country’s second largest city.

Wandering the hilly streets is like stepping back in time and comes with a serious backside workout. Houses stand side-by-side slanting crookedly with washing hanging from windows catching the breeze from the River Douro below.

Countless museums can be found throughout Porto, enough to entertain even the most uninspired visitor. A feature of the city centre is the old tram struggling loudly uphill in the same fashion it has for more than 100 years – even a museum is dedicated to its honour.

The city is small enough to cover in a single very (long) day and is the perfect starting point for heading south. Trains to Lisbon run daily for around 20 Euro.

HINT: A decent bottle of wine here will set you back around €1.70.

LISBON
The contrast between the Porto and Lisbon is vast. Portugal’s capital city feels like the richer sibling of Porto with its long, tree-lined streets, designer shopping and outside dining. Travellers seeking a cultural change without the shock factor should feel right at ease here.

The city is overlooked by two large landmarks; the national flag and emblem at Parque Eduardo VII, and Saint George’s Castle which boasts the best vantage point in the city with 360 degree views. But again, this has a steep, however well worth, climb.

For less active sightseers there’re plenty of alternatives. Start at the famous Baixa Square by the water and jump on a tram headed north along the coast. In less than half an hour you reach the small seaside town of Belem (Bethlehem in English). There’s no strained walking or uphill ventures here, just a simple flat-footed stroll. Antique markets are held here on the first Sunday of each month.

Restaurants, cafés and bakeries famous for their Pastie Da Nata (custard tarts) adorn the main street. Belem also features a marina and the Design and Astromomos Museums.

A thriving drinking and nightclubbing scene is a short walk east of Lisbon town centre in Bairro Alto. It doesn’t take long for tourists to be approached by drugs dealers offering mainly cocaine, marijuana and hash. Smart travellers steer clear of their persistence while locals barely notice they exist.

If you find yourself with any spare time in Lisbon, a day trip to Sintra is well worth your while. Just 45 minutes northwest along the coast you’ll find yourself in a medieval township. While there’s a tonne  of attractions on offer it’s hard to go past the Moorish Castle set high atop a mountain and surrounded by forest and cloud. For €4 a maniacal bus takes tourists up a steep and winding road at crazy pace – not suitable for sufferers of motion sickness. A further €6 gains entry to the castle which is worth every cent and more for views alone. While there’s plenty to see in Sintra a day trip is more than satisfying for most.

LAGOS
Lagos is the main hub of the Algarve region, Portugal’s answer to Spain’s Costa Del Sol, where the young sun and party seekers flock. A train from Lisbon will set you back around €22 and requires a quick and simple change at Tunes. But that’s far from the only change you’ll notice.

Lagos, once a small fishing village now resembles every other coastal tourist destination – concrete and commercial. It feels like an entirely different country. The marina is the focal point of town which is surrounded by old rock walls with a series of restaurants, shops, cafés and bars within.

The culture in Lagos is very much western influenced and many bars are owned by English and Australians who passed through for a ‘visit’ years before and found it difficult to leave the lifestyle behind. In these bars patrons are not intended to be sober and wouldn’t be allowed where possible – staff included. It’s an ‘anything goes’ atmosphere and difficult to do anything shocking… it’s all been done before. Where else can a barman whack a tourist on the head with a cricket bat while wearing a metal helmet and shooting tequila? According to a tally on the wall, Australians are clearly winning the beer bong contest for the year. While these places do everything in their power to keep you intoxicated, one bar kindly asks for no ‘swayzies!’

When drinking isn’t involved the beach is the perfect backdrop to recover. Water-sports and other beach activities are advertised, however none are located in Lagos and require travel to take part.
Only the most serious drinkers can last more than five days in this hidden piece of alcohol-induced paradise. And for a fast escape Faro is less than a two hour train ride away for around €6; a further €10 will get you a taxi to the airport.

This country can suit any traveller’s budget and with cheap airlines making daily flights across Portugal, there’s no excuse not to go before the rest of the world catches on to this hidden destination.