Portugal, basking in the welcome shadow of Spain

Originally, I wrote this article for the Australian Times Newspaper, which it was published in.  Then shortly afterwards it featured in the South African Newspaper too.

As globalisation continues to conquer the world, it’s becoming more difficult to find the culture shock that made travellers want to explore in the first place. But if you’re after a getaway offering a mix of medieval pasts and a modern approach to drinking, then look no further than Portugal. While its bigger neighbour Spain might bask in most of the limelight, there are plenty of reasons to head westward.

PORTO
Porto is located up north and is a reminder of why travel is so high on our agendas. Getting through customs at the airport can only be described as ‘a breeze’ and is the first of many indicators for how laid back this country is.

The Metro is a far cry from London’s overcrowded underground and instead can be likened to an air-conditioned tram. However on this system squishing against strangers isn’t an issue. The city’s population stands at just 220,000. Not bad for the country’s second largest city.

Wandering the hilly streets is like stepping back in time and comes with a serious backside workout. Houses stand side-by-side slanting crookedly with washing hanging from windows catching the breeze from the River Douro below.

Countless museums can be found throughout Porto, enough to entertain even the most uninspired visitor. A feature of the city centre is the old tram struggling loudly uphill in the same fashion it has for more than 100 years – even a museum is dedicated to its honour.

The city is small enough to cover in a single very (long) day and is the perfect starting point for heading south. Trains to Lisbon run daily for around 20 Euro.

HINT: A decent bottle of wine here will set you back around €1.70.

LISBON
The contrast between the Porto and Lisbon is vast. Portugal’s capital city feels like the richer sibling of Porto with its long, tree-lined streets, designer shopping and outside dining. Travellers seeking a cultural change without the shock factor should feel right at ease here.

The city is overlooked by two large landmarks; the national flag and emblem at Parque Eduardo VII, and Saint George’s Castle which boasts the best vantage point in the city with 360 degree views. But again, this has a steep, however well worth, climb.

For less active sightseers there’re plenty of alternatives. Start at the famous Baixa Square by the water and jump on a tram headed north along the coast. In less than half an hour you reach the small seaside town of Belem (Bethlehem in English). There’s no strained walking or uphill ventures here, just a simple flat-footed stroll. Antique markets are held here on the first Sunday of each month.

Restaurants, cafés and bakeries famous for their Pastie Da Nata (custard tarts) adorn the main street. Belem also features a marina and the Design and Astromomos Museums.

A thriving drinking and nightclubbing scene is a short walk east of Lisbon town centre in Bairro Alto. It doesn’t take long for tourists to be approached by drugs dealers offering mainly cocaine, marijuana and hash. Smart travellers steer clear of their persistence while locals barely notice they exist.

If you find yourself with any spare time in Lisbon, a day trip to Sintra is well worth your while. Just 45 minutes northwest along the coast you’ll find yourself in a medieval township. While there’s a tonne  of attractions on offer it’s hard to go past the Moorish Castle set high atop a mountain and surrounded by forest and cloud. For €4 a maniacal bus takes tourists up a steep and winding road at crazy pace – not suitable for sufferers of motion sickness. A further €6 gains entry to the castle which is worth every cent and more for views alone. While there’s plenty to see in Sintra a day trip is more than satisfying for most.

LAGOS
Lagos is the main hub of the Algarve region, Portugal’s answer to Spain’s Costa Del Sol, where the young sun and party seekers flock. A train from Lisbon will set you back around €22 and requires a quick and simple change at Tunes. But that’s far from the only change you’ll notice.

Lagos, once a small fishing village now resembles every other coastal tourist destination – concrete and commercial. It feels like an entirely different country. The marina is the focal point of town which is surrounded by old rock walls with a series of restaurants, shops, cafés and bars within.

The culture in Lagos is very much western influenced and many bars are owned by English and Australians who passed through for a ‘visit’ years before and found it difficult to leave the lifestyle behind. In these bars patrons are not intended to be sober and wouldn’t be allowed where possible – staff included. It’s an ‘anything goes’ atmosphere and difficult to do anything shocking… it’s all been done before. Where else can a barman whack a tourist on the head with a cricket bat while wearing a metal helmet and shooting tequila? According to a tally on the wall, Australians are clearly winning the beer bong contest for the year. While these places do everything in their power to keep you intoxicated, one bar kindly asks for no ‘swayzies!’

When drinking isn’t involved the beach is the perfect backdrop to recover. Water-sports and other beach activities are advertised, however none are located in Lagos and require travel to take part.
Only the most serious drinkers can last more than five days in this hidden piece of alcohol-induced paradise. And for a fast escape Faro is less than a two hour train ride away for around €6; a further €10 will get you a taxi to the airport.

This country can suit any traveller’s budget and with cheap airlines making daily flights across Portugal, there’s no excuse not to go before the rest of the world catches on to this hidden destination.

Vanuatu is the happiest place on Earth

Vanuatu they say is the happiest place on earth. And it is. If you disagree, you haven’t been. Simple. Where else can you stare into the crater of an active volcano while the molten hot centre of the earth splashes and roars ferociously just meters away? Right here in Vanuatu is where - and the feeling is magical.

Imagine a place where the crystal clear water remains perfect temperature year round and magnificent sunsets makes you weep in awe each evening. It's a place where time seems to stands still. Or perhaps it just seems that way because you are still waiting for the drink you ordered yesterday. Never mind, things here operate on island time. You will soon too.

Port Vila, or Vila as it is better known, is the capital of Vanuatu and located on the island Efate. It is the perfect introduction to the country. The airport is nothing more than a tin shed without air-conditioning. Outside customs, visitors are greeted by the tropical sounds of musicians wearing brightly coloured floral ensembles, hinting at what awaits outside.

Escape to the water front and admire the Pacific Ocean to the sound of children laughing as they play unsupervised in the water. Locals jibe each other loudly over bocce. Their comical banter provides many giggles and its easy to spend countless hours here people watching. 

Vila is low-rise, run down, and underwhelming. If you get through a visit without blowing an ankle on one of the many steep drops of uneven footpath, you are doing well. Outside the city is a stunning Blue Lagoon, Cascade Waterfalls, small islands and reefs aplenty. All are easily accessible by hired driver and van.

One of the first - inescapable - things you will notice in Vanuatu is the endless smiles. And it’s disconcerting.  However, the people here smile because their world is uncompromised and genuine. Children don’t cry or throw tantrums – they are as laid back as their parents and blissfully unaware of anything outside their borders.

Unlike Asia, there is no haggling in Vanuatu. None. And tipping is not part of their custom which can be unnerving. How can anywhere be this friendly without wanting something in return? What’s the catch? There isn’t one. The catch is that there is no catch. It's catch free!

This small nation is made up of 82 islands and its history packs a serious punch. Most of all, it’s paradise. How it managed to stay this way is a mystery, particularly as its neighbour Fiji has been heavily immigrated and developed. But Vanuatu is better for it and natives hope it stays this way. As should visitors alike.

Possibly the most magical island at Vanuatu, at least the most notable, is Tanna. South of Efate, this island is primal. Landing there is like arriving on the island from Jurassic Park – it is luscious green and thick with trees. Minus dinosaurs.  But it does have that prehistoric feeling. There are no roads, very little electricity, and no buildings. It is village life in its most natural form. 

Mt Yasur will undoubtedly become a favourite travel story among even the most worldly travellers. Mt Yasur is an active volcano accessible via four-wheel-drive. The ground tremors and the air rains with ash as the car ascends with windscreen wipers on overdrive.

When the car can go no further, it's time to leg it. But not before a safety briefing advising that: "If the volcano erupts or splashes lava high above, you may wish to turn and run. Do not do this. Stay where you are, look up to see where the lava is and try to step aside." Righto then.

Visitors can stand on the edge of the crater just meters from the centre of the earth roaring and spewing lava right before your eyes. It is a reminder of how insignificant and small we are in comparison to Mother Nature. We are at her will. 

Getting to this special island involves a short flight. Its airport makes the tin shed at Vila seem like Heathrow in comparison. And hand luggage takes on an entirely new meaning. A whipper snipper, chain saw and giant bags of rice a few of the standout items - quite a sight. Tanna natives are also noticeably darker skinned than other islands. It is well worth the visit.

Espiriitu Santo is the biggest island in Vanuatu. It is famous for hosting the Yanks in the Second World War and being the underwater graveyard for military equipment when the Japanese surrendered. Instead of shipping everything home, US Marines pushed it into the sea. It is now a popular diving site known as Million Dollar Bay. It’s also where the play South Pacific was written - unsurprising that someone found motivation to write in these surroundings.

Just two hours from Brisbane, there is no excuse not to add this paradise to the destination list. So before you cash in money for the next overseas holiday, consider converting it to Vatu (Vanuatu currency). You won't regret it.

Getting there is easy. Leaving is the hard part!